I'm exhausted. India becomes more beautiful every day, but it is balanced out by some of the most horrible scenes I have ever seen. This country is incredible. (I guess that's why everyone keeps saying "Incredible India.")
Today started with a 4:20am wakeup call so we could get on a train to Agra at 6:15am. I watched out the window for a majority of the train ride - at least until I couldn't take looking at the same things over and over while being served a bounty of breakfast. The scenes from "A Fine Balance" came true before my eyes... People in slums, on the railroad tracks, trash everywhere... then balanced with a beautiful field and a mosque in the distance... and back to poverty again.
Upon arriving in Agra, we took a bus ride for about an hour to Fatehpur Sikri . Along the way, I saw everything from little kids making cow patties, women carrying cow dung in pots on their heads, cows everywhere, a lively game of cricket in a big open field filled with cows, stray dogs, and goats, holi colors to be sold, people riding atop buses, and... well I could go on for a while. There is always something to be seen. Fatehpur Sikri is a red standstone fort build by Akbar in the 1500's. It seemed like a very well perserved ghost town.
After that, we had lunch on the penthouse floor of a hotel in Delhi, looking out at the Taj Mahal. The meal was so many courses!!! Man do people eat here!!! I can't even think of all the names of what we ate, but there were honestly 6 courses, including a heft dessert. Even though I tried my best not to eat a lot, but you can't help yourself when more just keeps coming. However, I am still feeling lunch and it's been 8 hours, so.. maybe it wasn't really all that good afterall. Next we headed to hotel for a break.
I was really bummed we weren't going to see Agra Fort - especially because we missed the Red Fort in Delhi. So, I rallied Sang, Jeremy, and Kevin - and against the advice of my leadrs (something along the lines of "it's not that much different than what we've already seen," - headed to Agra Fort for our break! I am SO VERY GLAD that we went. It was beautiful. Plus, it has some crazy history. Essentially Shah Jehan's son kidnapped him and locked him in a room for the last 7 years of his life. The room, located in this fort, overlooked the Taj Mahal beautifully - and thus the Shah lived out his days staring at his creation. The four of us had a great time trying to pack as much of this fort into our short timeframe, and again I am so happy that we went.
Finally, we went to the Taj Mahal. I am hesitant to write about this because I know my words will do it no justice. Let me just say this... When I visited the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem in 1996, I had nowhere near the emotional experience that I did when visiting the Taj Mahal tonight. On one hand, the place is more beautiful than any picture can represent. Simply breathtaking. On the other hand, seeing it symbolized that I was in India... after all of my talk and planning and learning. You know those rare moments where you are supremely conscious of being alive? This was one. I see 100% why it is one of the Seven Wonders of the New World.
On the way back, we were swarmed with beggars and vendors. What put me over the edge was a little boy with a limp leg, walking on his hands and good leg, following us to the bus. It was heartbreaking in itself... but then someone gave him 10 rupees, and he looked up and waved at us and smiled. Speechless.
So, that's what I mean about beauty and beast in India. Another eye-opening day. One I will never forget. (My mind is filling up this trip.)
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